Pernod Absinthe: "The Original Recipe"

Almost three years after the April Fool's Day blogs (mine and the original French spoof) about Pernod bringing back the original Pernod Fils, it looks like this - or something like it - may eventually be happening. On March 5th, 2013, the TTB issued their approval of the following labels:

Absinthe lovers will note the inclusion of the words "The Original Recipe," the fact that Pernod clearly states that their 1805 distillery is France's first absinthe distillery (and not the first absinthe distillery in the world which was in Switzerland a few years earlier), the mention of plants being distilled in wine alcohol, and the disappearance - at last - of the artificial colours that have been in Pernod Absinthe up to now.

I, for one, am delighted that Pernod have at last removed the artificial colours. Several other high volume absinthes still use artificial colours, and maybe this will force them to ditch them too. Artificial colours are a short-cut that provides a cheaper cost and a sub-standard product. Companies using them have had an unfair cost advantage over those companies that have chosen to make traditional absinthe in the original way.

In fact, I tasted what I was told was the new Pernod product a few weeks ago, and it was clearly a significant improvement on the current product.

Pernod's new, old recipe may well herald improved standards globally in the category and the consumer is the ultimate winner!

UPDATE: July 5, 2013.

I wrote above: "I, for one, am delighted that Pernod have at last removed the artificial colours. Several other high volume absinthes still use artificial colours, and maybe this will force them to ditch them too. Artificial colours are a short-cut that provides a cheaper cost and a sub-standard product."

And now (surprise, surprise), the first French post-ban absinthe becomes the first to copy Pernod in ditching its artificial colours.

One wonders what took them so long ...

Absinthe's bright (but not artificially bright) future?

Hidden away in a prospectus for a report on the Global Absinthe Market, I came across the following quote:

Pernod Absinthe international director Jean-François Collobert says: “Although we did have an absinthe-like product on the market [before the lifting of the French ban], we weren't comfortable marketing a product that was not exactly authentic absinthe. Since the restrictions were lifted in France in 2011 we decided to accelerate the redevelopment of our absinthe brand both in terms of the product itself, but also in terms of geographic expansion.

It's a very surprising announcement to make ... I have already seen it described as a confession. So what does it actually mean? And what are the implications for the absinthe category?

Firstly there does not yet seem to be a new Pernod Absinthe on the market, although there has already been one new label design approved by the TTB in 2011. Here are the labels approved in 2009:


and here are the labels approved in 2011:




There is no evidence of a product recipe change here, and the only major alteration comes in the first paragraph of the back label (from Pernod opening the "first absinthe distillery" in 1805 on the old label to opening the "first French absinthe distillery" in 1805 on the new label). So if the promised product "redevelopment" has not yet been made, what might it be? Could it really be the re-introduction of the old Pernod Fils as speculated (somewhat jokingly) here? Or maybe a partial move in that direction, by removing artificial colours? It's impossible to know exactly what Pernod will do, but the next few months will be interesting, and real absinthe lovers will be keenly following these developments.

Of course, if Pernod does go all the way to its historical 19th century recipe book, that will be almost universally welcomed. In that case, within just two years, one infamous artificially coloured absinthe (Le Tourment Vert) will have started to disappear from US shelves and bars, and another artificially coloured absinthe will be completely replaced. The US market will still have another dozen or more artificially coloured absinthes, while globally some countries are dominated by such products. Will the demise of Le Tourment Vert and the re-formulation of Pernod persuade others to up their game? It could do, and it should do. And if one more of the big players in the category drops artificial colours, it could help the framing of any future legal definition of absinthe. Maybe other countries could even move towards the uniquely high standards of Switzerland (absinthe must be distilled and cannot be artificially coloured).

It's too early to take this promised redevelopment as a Christmas present for the absinthe category, but it certainly looks encouraging!

A Christmas present from US Customs?

The photo above is on the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau’s (TTB) website as "Photo of the week." Looking at it, I'm not sure whether a bottle of real absinthe was harmed in the making of the photo, but that's a whole different debate.

The TTB website gives clear guidelines regarding the use of the term "absinthe" on labels of distilled spirits products and in related advertising material. A key clause relates to thujone:

Thujone-Free.
We approve the use of the term "absinthe" on the label of a distilled spirits product and in related advertisements only if the product is "thujone-free" pursuant to the Food and Drug Administration's (FDA) regulation at 21 CFR 172.510. Based upon the level of detection of FDA's prescribed method for testing for the presence of thujone, TTB considers a product to be "thujone-free" if it contains less than 10 parts per million of thujone.
Contrary to the comments made by some of the more disreputable "bootleggers" of absinthe shipping bottles from Europe to the USA, this figure is no different from the absinthe regulations in Europe (although there is an additional "bitters" category in Europe with a higher limit), and is also no different from most of the samples of 19th century absinthe analysed by chemists in recent years.

There have been countless debates on blogs and forums over the last 2/3 years about the relevance of thujone content, limits and effects. In the interests of science I confess to having drunk absinthes with less than 1 part per million as well as one with over 300 parts per million. For me, and others at that tasting, there was absolutely no difference in effect between these (I won't comment here on the taste differences). In any case, the US Government prohibits the import of absinthe with 10 or more parts per million of thujone ...
Or does it?

For more than a year from late 2009 until 2011 or later, US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) gave a different figure:

"Absinthe (Alcohol)

The importation of absinthe is subject to the U.S. Food
and Drug Administration regulations (21 C.F.R. 172.510
and the Department of the Treasury’s Alcohol and
Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau regulations (27 C.F.R.
Parts 13.51, 5.42(a), and 5.65. The absinthe content
must be “thujone free” (that is, it must contain less than
100 parts per million of thujone)."
The less than 100 ppm limit was published in the both the text and in a larger PDF file. Of course this didn't (and still doesn't) mean that Americans returning from Europe can bring in any absinthe they find there since it would still have to meet the guidelines on both the TTB and CBP websites on labelling:

"the term “absinthe” cannot be the brand name; the term “absinthe” cannot
stand alone on the label; and the artwork and/or graphics cannot project images of hallucinogenic, psychotropic or mind-altering effects."
However the apparent discrepancy between the TTB and CBP on thujone was interesting, and I wonder whether anyone was able to challenge the confiscation of an absinthe that meets the written CBP guidelines?

I assume that the CBP documents were incorrect with a finger slipping twice to add a zero and hence an extra 90 parts per million to the limit. In any case, the mistake has now at last been corrected and the TTB and CBP both state the same thujone limit and the same packaging regulations.

So, on reflection, the CBP may not have been giving Americans a Christmas present here. And, based on my own experiences, it didn't matter anyway!

I was planning to close this article by saying that I wish my readers a merry Christmas and hope that Father Christmas brings your favourite drink for the holidays. However another article of US legislation states (see page 5 of the PDF):

"Beverage alcohol advertising and marketing materials
should not contain the name of or depict Santa Claus."

So I'll close with a picture of Billy Bob Thornton instead ...

Joyeux Noël!

Heinz 57 and Absinthe

Some of our younger readers may not be aware of the long-term Heinz slogan: "Heinz 57," used to describe the broad product range offered by Heinz. It was referred to in a recent New York Times article, and, according to Wikipedia, "Heinz 57" is sometimes also used as a slang term for mixed-breed dogs; which are more often called "Mutts" or a "Mutt".

What does this have to do with absinthe? Well I wasn't going to refer to dogs, although another, even more recent New York Times article does indeed describe some "absinthes" as dogs.

I refer to Heinz 57 to highlight both the current number of "absinthes" approved by the TTB or in process and the colourful variety that seems to be the latest thing. The latest three absinthes are:-

1/2. Abyss Authentic and Abyss Raspberry (!): labels now visible on the TTB site, indicating their new website (not operational at the time of writing). I'm intrigued at the 1811 claim, especially for the raspberry variant.

3. Fleurs du Mal: as featured at the top of the article, which has no actual reference to absinthe but the glass, strength and brand name clearly suggest it is aimed at the absinthe market. According to Wikipedia, "Les Fleurs du mal" (often translated The Flowers of Evil) is a volume of French poetry by Charles Baudelaire ... The subject matter of these poems deals with themes relating to decadence and eroticism."

I was disappointed to see that Fleurs du Mal contains several additives not prevalent in Baudelaire's day, such as FD&C Yellow #5 and FD&C Blue #1. The makers of Fleurs du Mal should study this posting about Le Tourment Vert in which the owner announces he is in the process of "changing the color to be a more natural absinthe hue." More on that interesting development later ....

List of Absinthes Approved for US launch (or in process)

This image was used to illustrate Swiss absinthe moving "from the shade to the light" when they were legalized in 2005.

UPDATED JULY 22, 2015

111 now approved (including significantly re-formulated brands), at least 122 either approved or in process!

PLEASE NOTE THAT MANY EXPERTS WOULD SAY THAT NOT ALL THESE PRODUCTS ARE IN FACT REAL ABSINTHE. BUT THAT'S ANOTHER ARTICLE!

............................................................................................

Following an earlier posting, some readers said that it would be useful to have a full list of absinthes approved for US launch or thought to have pending applications, combined with references to public commentary or reviews. I will update this page whenever new absinthes are listed on the TTB website or are announced and/or discussed publicly.

Bookmark this page to check back for new updates.

Listed on the TTB website or found in the US market


1. Lucid: reviews. New label approval: March 2012. Even newer label approval: March 2015.

2. Kübler: reviews.
3. St. George: reviews.
4. Grande Absente: some experts do not consider this to be a real absinthe, since the label states it is a liqueur and thus it contains sugar. Absinthes do not contain sugar. Commentary.
5. Le Tourment Vert: same sugar comment as Grande Absente. reviews. Brand now withdrawn but bottles may still be found in some States.
6. La Fée Parisienne: reviews. See No. 93 which is a replacement for this.
7. Mythe Absinthe Traditional: reviews.
8. Libertine. Believed to have been withdrawn.
9. Mata Hari Absinthe Bohemian: commentary.
10. La Crème Kübler: not an absinthe, but a liqueur with an absinthe base. Nothing known about this product apart from the labels. Not yet launched in the USA.
11. Vincent van Gogh Klasiek Absinthe from Luctor (of Vincent van Gogh Vodka): nothing known about this product apart from its label. Not yet launched in the USA.
12. Artemisia (Fat Dog Spirits, Florida): apart from its label, nothing is known about this product.
13. La Muse Verte: discussion.
14/15. Two Sirène brands from Chicago's North Shore Distillery: blanche approved, but still no launch date.
16. Denver's Leopold: reviews.
17. Trillium: discussion. Now withdrawn.
18. La Clandestine Absinthe: reviews.
19. Versinthe Versinthe "real" absinthe has been rumoured for some while, but it is strange to see this latest TTB approval, with a "Versinthe" brand classified within "OTHER FRUIT & PEELS LIQUEURS." The label has now been added on the TTB website, showing that this a 45% abv (or 90 proof) absinthe.
20. Marteau De La Belle Epoque: Gwydion Stone's Marteau has not changed its name. It seems that the TTB spell-checker has broken down. Replaced by Master's Reserve (89 below).
21. Obsello: the first Spanish absinthe, although on its initial label, it was claimed to be suisse grade. Later re-launched as a California absinthe and now withdrawn.
22. Duplais Verte: the first of the Tempus Fugit Spirits to be approved.
23. Mansinthe: the second Tempus Fugit Spirit brand.
24. Vieux Pontarlier: the third Tempus Fugit brand.
25. The first Czech absinthe, St. Antoine Reserve. Discussed in some detail at Fée Verte. Not yet launched in the USA.
26. Taboo Genuine from Canada? Label details not yet visible on the TTB site, but if it's Taboo from Canada, it seems likely to be this Taboo.  (Edit: yes, it is). Not yet launched in the USA.
27. Pernod Aux Extraits de l'Absinthe: announced here for July 2008 launch. Reviews. Now withdrawn and replaced by 87 below.
28. Djabel: the second Czech "absinth." Believed to have been discontinued in the USA.
29. Green Fairy: the third Czech "absinth." Still available in a few States.
30. Jade Nouvelle-Orléans: at last. As pre-announced in June. Label not yet visible on the TTB site.
31. Vieux Carré: from Philadelphia Distilling. Interesting to see TWO New Orleans related absinthes in one week. Embyronic website only at 31 October 2008. Vieux Carré seems likely to be available in Pennsylvania soon (or now?) according to this.
32. Pere Francois, the first of four absinthes that seem to be handled by Unique Imports (see also below). Difficult to find in the USA.
33. Koruna, the 4th Czech brand and the 3rd from the same company. Difficult to find in the USA.
34. La Valote, another Swiss brand from the Val-du-Travers. Difficult to find in the USA.
35. La Charlotte from the same company that makes La Libertine. Difficult to find in the USA and appears to be heavily discounted.
36. Pacifique from Marc Bernhard. Read about it at the Wormwood Society and on their blog.
37. Manguin Premium Number One. Another absinthe from Unique. Only seen in Las Vegas.
38. Upsynth, the authentic genuine Austrian absinthe spirit. From a company that market an absinthe and soda premix in Australia. Discussed (note spelling) here. Not yet launched in the USA.
39. Corsair Red, apparently the first red-coloured absinthe to be launched in the USA from Corsair Artisan in Kentucky.
40/41. The two new absinthes from Delaware Phoenix (a little distillery in upstate New York): Walton Waters and Meadow of Love. Congratulations, Cheryl!
42. Francois Guy, at last! Not yet launched in the USA.
43. Lemercier, the fourth absinthe from Unique. Difficult to find in the USA.
44. Lamesinthe La Verte. Another French product which is described on the label as a liqueur. Difficult to find in the USA.Presumably this means it contains sugar: some experts would say that this is therefore not real abinthe.
45. Absente looks likely to be re-launched with an artemisia absinthium base. Will they be selling the new Absente at the same price as the old Absente, e.g. $31 and upwards? Does this indicate that Grande Absente has not been very successful (this also has a new label approval, but it is not visible on the TTB site). Both labels are approved with the qualification "THE FINISHED PRODUCT MUST BE "THOUGHTFUL" PURSUANT THE 21 CFR 172.510," whatever that means!
46/47. Abyss Authentic and Abyss Raspberry (!): labels not yet visible on the TTB site, although the mispelt advice on the TTB approval that these must be "MUST BE THYNE FREE PURSUANT TO 21 CFR 172.510" coupled with the Abyss trademark registration makes it clear these are to be marketed as absinthe.
48. Fleurs du Mal: which has no actual reference to absinthe but the glass, strength and brand name clearly suggest it is aimed at the absinthe market. Difficult to find in the USA.
49. Herbsaint: now approved. see this blog for more information. The latest label approval shows that the "absinthe" descriptor has now been removed from the label, but I'll leave this in this list for sentimental reasons!
50. Absinthe Ordinaire from the makers of Absente and Grande Absente. Again declared as a liqueur because of its sugar content. Apparently I have to go back to Absinthe College because this label states: "Legend has it that the first true Absinthe recipe was created by Dr. Pierre Ordinaire in 1792 in rural France." Seems that Wikipedia, the Virtual Absinthe Museum , and all the other experts disagree.
51. La Fée NV. 38%. I expect this one will arouse some interest on the Forums! Fée Verte discussion here.
52. Edward 111: Discovered in late night Tweets on Twitter. One of us may have been drinking (it helps!). Formula and label now approved. A traditional bleue style absinthe that will be produced in upstate New York and launch by mid to end of summer 2009 in NYC. Now appears to have been withdrawn.
53. Duplais Blanche: reviews. The 4th absinthe from Tempus Fugit with rumours of at least one more to come.
54. Crispin's Supérieure launch announced in the San Francisco Chronicle on August 15th, 2008. This now seems likely to emerge as Germain-Robin Aromatic Brandy, according to the COLA issued in March 2009.
55. Mephisto from the distillers of Mata-Hari. Difficult to find in the USA.
56/57. Two absinthes from the Great Lakes Distillery, Milwaukee under the Amerique 1912 name and both in 375 ml bottles: Absinthe Verte and Absinthe Rouge.
58. Fenom Modern Absinthe. 40% abv. Hand-crafted by "one of France's few remaining absinthe experts." Website coming soon.
59/60. La Sorciere. Made by Master Distiller, Davorin Kuchan, from his family recipe. Old World Spirits, 50% abv, with a brandy base. A verte and a blanche.
61/62. Bairnfather Extra Anise Absinth and Bairnsfather Natural Absinth: discussion here. Not yet launched in the USA.
63. Tabu Classic Strong from Germany. I wonder if we will ever see Taboo from Canada which was approved for launch some time ago. Not yet launched in the USA.
64. C.F. Berger Esprit Originale: apparently the US version of the old Verte Suisse. Not yet launched in the USA.
65. Esprit Edouard Supérieure: the third of the Jade range. Not yet launched in the USA.
66. 1901. The last of the Jade range.
67. Obstinée, another Swiss absinthe.
68. Trinity Absinthe Supérieure from Overland Distillery, Colorado.
69. Michel P. Roux Supreme Absinthe, at 75.5% a.b.v. (151 proof), this was the highest strength absinthe approved for US launch at the time (now overaken by number 76 on the list). The label states it is a 375 ml bottle and that every bottle is individually numbered. Unfortunately it also contains artificial colours.
70. Tenneyson Royale, another absinthe produced at the Emile Pernot distillery in Pontarlier. Brand website.

71/72. Ridge Absinthes from Joe Legate formerly known as T73, of the Wormwood Society. Both a blanche and a verte are now approved, according to their blog. Now re-launched as Vilya Absinthes.
73. Parnasse Absinth Superiore, the first Italian absinth(e) to be approved for US launch. At 50% and with a label that declares artificial colourings. Difficult to find in the USA.
74. Heritage from France via Alandia (the trademark owner), a verte to be sold by Tempus Fugit Spirits.
75. Brevans H.R. Giger, another from Tempus Fugit.
76. Gruner Fee from Fischer, Austria.
77. Knarr Absinthe Verte from Oregon. At 160 proof (or 80% abv), I believe this is the strongest alcohol content absinthe so far approved for US launch. Not that it is necessarily a good thing ...
78. Absente La Creme. Absinthe Cream Liqueur from the makers of Absente. 18% a.b.v. With artifical colours, and to be consumed within 6 months of opening. Interesting to note that Kübler have a similar approval (see 10 above), but have not yet launched this product in the USA, or indeed anywhere.
79. Blues Cat: another interesting absinthe from Delaware Phoenix. More details here. Produced as a one-off and now difficult to find in the USA.
80. Wild Card Pacific North West Absinthe.
81. Emperor Norton Absinthe Dieu, from San Francisco.
82. Letherbee Charred Oak Absinthe Brun, from Chicago.
83. Brimstone Liqueur Absinthe, from New Mexico.
84. At last, Toulouse Red from New Orleans.
85. Greenvillian Absinthe Nouveau from Dark Corner Distillery in South Carolina.
86. La Fée Blanche. Difficult to find in the USA.
87. Pernod (The Original Recipe): See longer write-up. This is listed separately here, since it is clearly a different product from 27 above.
88. Butterfly Classic Absinthe. Originally produced in Boston over 100 years ago, and now made in Switzerland.
89. Marteau Extrait D'Absinthe.
90. Redux from Colorado.
91. Toulouse Green from New Orleans.
92. Toad Chateau Espanole Tropical: from Wisconsin.
93. Replacement for No. 6 La Fée Parisienne: all-natural.
94. Fassett's Sixty Five. From Washington.
95. Tree Spirits (based on Apple Spirit): from Maine.
96. Doc's, at last. Made in Brooklyn.
97. Copper and King's Blanche Absinthe, from Kentucky. Not seen on the TTB site.
98. Haint Absinthe from Oregon. Again not seen on the TTB site.
99. Crown Valley Missouri Absinthe: an ultimate rarity! Not seen on the TTB site and not on the distiller's website. We have found a few retailers with limited stocks!
100. Eckert and Guthrie Absinthe Blanche from Livermore, California. Apparently a joint venture involving Winston Guthrie, author of one of the best books of absinthe cocktails.
101. Artisan Spirits Légende Blanche: quite possibly the same as no. 100 above. Same address, same strength (68% abv).
102. Artisan Spirits Légende  Verte: from the same company as 101 above.
103. Toulouse Green: at last the Verte from Atelier Vie, New Orleans (see 84 above).
104 - 106. Three vapor distilled blanches from Copper and Kings (again not seen on the TTB site).
107. Glenrose Spirits Absinthe Verte, made in North Rose. NY.
108. Kubler Verte: on the TTB site, confirmed on Facebook. "6,000 bottles for the US - just arrived. 375 mls only."
109. Mount Defiance absinthe made in Virginia. On TTB, and sold in Washington DC.
110. Les Poetes Recette 1903, from Racine, Val-de-Travers.
111. Green Siren Alaskan absinthe: 375 ml (two COLA's: no discernible difference). These do not state absinthe, but the herb bill and the method of consumption make it clear that it is an absinthe.

Publicly announced but not yet listed on TTB

112. Obsello Special Edition Distiller's Reserve: discussed on the Wormwood Society.
113. Arcane Absinthe?
114. Absinthe Minded from Oregon Spirit Distillers.
115. Pennsylvania Pure Distilleries have announced their intention to launch absinthe.
116.  Esprit Vert, from Southern Alchemy. As discussed on Fée Verte.
117. Wormwood Star Absinthe from Florida.
118. Lovelle Absinthe: In progress for several years. Now promising that "The first product line of Lovelle Absinthes will debut across the world in the fourth quarter of 2013." Not convinced!
119. Void Absinthe: "We are currently working building our new distillation facility" but, for some reason we cannot tell you where that is. Sounds suspicious!
120. Synthe Absinthe: from Disobedient Spirits, Pennsylvania.
121. Mariposa Absinthe: yes, that's Spanish for Butterfly.
122. Hapsburg Absinthe: confirmed in their Facebook feed.

Unsubstantiated Rumours and Gossip

123. Artemisia Collection: added here following comment left by Anonymous. To be transferred "up" the list as and when something more substantial appears or someone translates their website for me! Their latest press release suggests that they are looking for a US importer ...

As a quick side-note, some readers might be interested in this article about the TTB process.

And to read this from a letter in The UK Independent:

"Wine bureaucrats lose their bottle

Roger Hewell's letter (19 August) reminded me of a visit to a Californian winery. The labels on all the bottles, in addition to the usual health warnings, bore at the bottom the words "Open other end".

The proprietor told us that all wine labels had to be submitted for approval to the US government. When he sent in his first label with "Open other end" on it, it was returned with an instruction to remove these words. The proprietor replied that if the government would guarantee to pay all damages claimed by anyone who had tried to open the wrong end, then he would do as instructed. He never had a reply.

John Evans, Marlow, Buckinghamshire"

Back to the subject, do any of my readers have any other imminent absinthes to add to this list?