Absinthe Days and Mardi Gras

I blogged about Absinthe Days in 2012, noting that March 5 had been designated National Absinthe Day in the USA at Lucid's instigation and that March 1 was being celebrated in Switzerland as their Absinthe Day.

March 5, 2007 was the day when Lucid got their final US approval, and coincidentally March 5, 2013 was the day when Pernod got their final label approval for their new "original recipe."

Neither of these dates were celebrated at the time for a variety of reasons, including the fact that products were not actually available in the US to celebrate with.

How very different from March 1, 2005: the day when absinthe was re-legalised in Switzerland after a 95 year absence. There was extensive press and TV coverage ...

The articles above feature both Claude-Alain Bugnon, the first illegal/"clandestine" distiller to go legal, and Yves Kubler.

Parties were held and many green fairies were observed that day in the Val-de-Travers (there may be some videos of the event on YouTube). All in all, it was a crazy day, and judging by videos of the Mardi Gras, it seems the Swiss and the citizens of New Orleans have a lot in common!

So it seems appropriate that in the space of 5 days this year, we can celebrate the Swiss Absinthe Day, Mardi Gras and then the US National Absinthe Day. With all those opportunities to drink, I probably don't need to suggest any more absinthe cocktails!

In fact on Mardi Gras I will be running a consumer event on absinthe in cocktails at London's famous Milk and Honey, and sadly I will not be able to go to London's Mardi Gras event at the NOLA Bar. NOLA, London is the first bar outside North America to win the coveted Seal of the Sazerac. Obviously a Sazerac - or an Absinthe Frappé - would be great way to celebrate any or all of these dates. In fact I will be drinking at least two different versions of the Death in the Afternoon that evening to see how different absinthes work in different ways in the same cocktail. That will be an interesting experiment - and one that I would urge any absinthe lover or bartender to consider.

My own distiller has progressed somewhat since 2005, and thankfully he now has some slightly larger alembics!

Happy Absinthe Days! Happy Mardi Gras!

Lucid acquisition

Topline news about the sale/acquisition of Lucid, the first absinthe marketed in the USA since prohibition.

"Oregon-based Hood River Distillers has acquired Lucid Absinthe Supérieure from New York’s Viridian Spirits LLC for an undisclosed sum."

More news later as and when it emerges. At this stage, it is surprising to see no mention of this anywhere apart from on the well-respected Shanken News site.

No doubt absinthe connoisseurs will want to know what this means for the other brands sold by Viridian, i.e. Ted Breaux's Jades, as well as the people concerned. Viridian also helped launch La Clandestine in the USA in 2008, and although La Clandestine has subsequently moved to DC Craft Spirits, I am grateful for Viridian's early help.

Here are the press releases issued by the companies concerned:


Hood River Distillers, Inc. Acquires Lucid Absinthe Supérieure
Northwest’s largest importer of distilled spirits maintains expansion momentum, adds absinthe to
premium portfolio

HOOD RIVER, Ore. (March 15, 2013) – Continuing its national rise as an innovative leader in the spirits industry, Hood River Distillers, Inc. announced today its agreement with Viridian Spirits LLC to acquire Lucid Absinthe Supérieure. Lucid is the first genuine absinthe to be legally available in the United States in over 95 years. Launched in 2007, Lucid is an authentic absinthe crafted and distilled at the historical Combier Distillery, founded in 1834 in Saumur, France. Lucid is formulated by world renowned absinthe expert T.A. Breaux, and is distilled in strict accordance to traditional French methods.
“We are committed to offering a diverse portfolio of premium, quality spirits,” said Ronald Dodge, Hood River Distillers president and CEO. "All of our brands are rooted in history, heritage and authenticity, so the addition of Lucid to our brand roster is a natural fit. We look forward to its strong future in the U.S.”
Unlike many contemporary imitators, Lucid is naturally green in color and features a full measure of Grande Wormwood (Artemesia absinthium), green anise, sweet fennel, and other culinary herbs representative of
European traditions and historical absinthe. Each bottle of Lucid is carefully prepared by skilled craftsmen, using ancient copper absinthe alembics.
For more information about Hood River Distillers, Inc., visit www.hrdspirits.com or contact the sales and marketing office at 503.574.3693 or hrdsales@hrdspirits.com.

About Lucid
Launched in 2007, Lucid Absinthe Supérieure (SRP $59.99/750ml) was the first genuine absinthe made with Grande Wormwood to be legally available in the United States since 1912. Lucid is distilled in strict accordance to traditional French methods, in the historic Combier distillery (Loire Valley, France), founded in 1834 and designed by Gustave Eiffel. Lucid is distilled entirely from spirits and European whole herbs and uses no artificial additives, oils, or dyes. Lucid is ideal in both traditional and modern absinthe drinking methods. Visit Lucid at www.drinklucid.com.

About Hood River Distillers
Founded in 1934 and headquartered in Hood River, Ore., Hood River Distillers is the Northwest’s largest and oldest importer, producer, bottler, and marketer of distilled spirits. Pendleton Whisky, 1910 Rye Whisky, Broker’s London Dry Gin, SinFire Cinnamon Whisky, Yazi Ginger Vodka, ULLR Nordic Libation, HRD Vodka, Lucid Absinthe Supérieure, and the complete line of Monarch distilled spirits are just a few of the company’s brands distributed across the country. Hood River Distillers is a member of the Century Council and promotes responsible drinking habits. For more information, visit www.hrdspirits.com.

LUCID ABSINTHE, THE BRAND THAT BROKE THE BAN, ACQUIRED BY HOOD RIVER DISTILLERS

March 18, 2013 / New York:  Viridian Spirits, LLC today announced the sale of Lucid Absinthe Supérieure to Hood River Distillers, Inc. effective immediately.  Lucid Absinthe is the brand that ‘broke the ban’ after Viridian’s founders lobbied the U.S. government, making absinthe legal in the U.S. as of 2007.  Developed from 19^th century absinthe recipes by T.A. Breaux and still hand-crafted in antique copper pot stills, Lucid is made from whole European herbs at the Gustave Eiffel-designed Combier distillery in France’s Loire Valley, without any artificial colors or flavors, making it -- by historical definition -- one of the most authentic absinthes available today.  Lucid is also the world’s best selling absinthe, sold in all 50 U.S. states and throughout the world.

Lucid’s combination of being first to market, the quality in the bottle, its eye-catching packaging which pays homage to Toulouse-Lautrec’s iconic “Le Chat Noir” painting, and dedicated, clever sales and marketing campaigns over the years earned Lucid its enviable position as the absinthe category leader.  This independent brand is a classic David vs. the Goliath brands that are part of much larger, multi-national companies.

Jared Gurfein, a corporate lawyer and co-founder of Viridian who spearheaded the effort to overturn the Federal ban says, “We are happy that Lucid is going to a great home with Hood River Distillers, and will always have the brand in our hearts.  We were very proud to make history and shape the spirits industry when we overturned the ban.”   Co-founder and industry veteran Jonathan Bonchick says, “To achieve what we achieved as an independent brand on a reasonably small investment is really impressive, and simply speaks to the quality of the product.”  Co-founder Eddie Soleymani says, “For Jared and myself, Lucid was our first foray into spirits.  We were fortunate to enter the industry with an historical accomplishment and a successful product – no small feat in the face of the worst recession in a generation.”   Jared and Jon are already working on their next project, which they intend to be “another groundbreaking achievement,” while Eddie is continuing his entrepreneurial career with several other startup ventures both within and outside of the spirits business.

Established in 1934 in Hood River, Oregon, Hood River Distillers began by making fruit wines and brandies from the apples, pears, and berries that were going to waste as excess production from the valley’s abundant harvests.  Located beside the Columbia River with majestic Mt. Hood as its backdrop, Hood River Distillers has been at its current bottling facility since 1968.  The largest and oldest importer, producer, bottler, and marketer of spirits in the northwest – a particularly strong market for absinthe – the company’s portfolio includes Pendleton Whisky, SinFire Cinnamon Whisky, and Broker’s London Dry Gin, among others.  “The groundbreaking advancements Lucid achieved in the U.S. is something we have admired and respected for some time now,” said Ronald Dodge, Hood River Distillers president and CEO. “We are proud to have the history that comes with this product included in our portfolio of premium, heritage brands, and we’re excited about its future.”

In closing, the typically understated Breaux says:  “I greatly enjoyed working with Viridian, and look forward to working with Hood River Distillers.”

Absinthe: the movie

THIS REVIEW HAS VARIOUS MOVIE QUOTES AND REFERENCES. SEE IF YOU CAN SPOT THEM ALL!

“Absinthe,” a new documentary about our favourite drink, was launched too late for an Oscar in 2011 (of course the competition was quite tough with “The King’s Speech” winning much of the glory and “Inside Job” winning the best documentary prize).

However, for absinthe fans and for those wanting to find out more about this mysterious spirit, Chris Buddy’s new film, now available for download in the USA from Amazon, will certainly win many friends, and maybe prizes in the future.

With my association with Claude-Alain Bugnon, I was fortunate enough to get a DVD copy of the film by airmail directly from Director Chris Buddy (global distribution has still to be announced), and I can only agree with the claim that it is, for now at least, the “Definitive Film on History’s Most Notorious Drink.”

Buddy rounds ups the usual suspects with a cast featuring many of the “Who’s Who” of modern absinthe, including the producers, sorry, I mean distillers, Ted Breaux, Claude-Alain Bugnon and Francois Guy, Lucid CEO Jared Gurfein, and many notable absinthe historians including Marie-Claude Delahaye, Barnaby Conrad III, Benoît Noël …. and, speaking via webcam (which made it sound like he was 20,000 leagues under the sea), David Nathan-Maister. Nice to see friends Peter Schaf, Nico Tripet, Luc-Santiago Rodriguez and Jean-Luc Tucoulat too (but no absinthe bloggers, unfortunately!).

Intriguingly, there was no trace of those responsible for artificially coloured and/or pre-sweetened absinthe, and no trace of products the absinthe community calls “fauxsinthes.” Nothing other than 100% distilled absinthes, the stuff that dreams are made of.

And, except for some fleeting shots of Combier, hardly a single distillery shown from outside the Val-de-Travers or Pontarlier (respectively the birthplace and 19th century capital of absinthe). Others would say that is the film’s only real omission but it’s certainly representative of historic absinthe production centres.

The movie progresses from the birth of absinthe (clearly explained by Marie-Claude Delahaye to be in Couvet in the 1790’s, and NOT anywhere else in 1805!). So much for a famous movie quote: “In Switzerland they had brotherly love - they had 500 years of democracy and peace, and what did that produce? The cuckoo clock.” How about absinthe, Mr Welles? Marie-Claude is famous within the absinthe community, but she disarmingly tells us later that she doesn’t drink (so no point in thinking "I'll have what she's having").

Absinthe then details the drink's steady early growth, and its then more spectacular growth in the late 19th century Paris (“We’ll always have Paris”). The ban and the 20th century underground manufacture in Switzerland are covered in a lot of detail, bringing Claude-Alain Bugnon into focus, as large as life and just as humorous on film as in the flesh, as he bids for possible Oscar 2012 glory!


One can almost hear him saying “"I love the smell of wormwood in the morning!" By comparison, Ted Breaux comes across


as positively poetic, with Viridian’s Jared Gurfein, in detailing the US re-legalisation, playing the straight man to the famous absinthe distillers.

I’d be hard pressed to find many factual errors in the film, although I was surprised at the minimal references to the phylloxera blight which played a big part in absinthe’s explosive growth. And it is only recently becoming clear that absinthe was not actually banned in the USA in 1912, although importation and transport across State lines were (so production in some States, and sales within those States, could well have continued until much closer to prohibition).

A great way to watch Absinthe would be to sample some of the absinthes shown in the film at the same time they (or their inventors/owners) are on screen. So get the absinthe fountain out, invite some friends and share one of the Jade absinthes while listening to Ted Breaux talking about 19th century absinthe. Crack open a bottle of La Clandestine while listening to Claude-Alain Bugnon talking about the moonshiners of 20th century Switzerland. And then enjoy a glass of Lucid while Jared Gurfein describes the battle to legalise absinthe in the USA.


After all that, it is recommended that you only watch and imbibe the matching absinthes once every evening. Tomorrow is another day and Absinthe will definitely repay second and third viewings.

I leave almost the last word to Claude-Alain Bugnon as he brings the film to a close ...

In fact, he goes on to say a little more, but far be it from me to reveal the film's dénouement!

Here's the film's trailer:



In the spirit of movies, let's close with some fun. When you’ve watched the film, please let me know which of its stars might have said:

"I am big! It's the pictures that got small."

"Keep your friends close, but your enemies closer."

"If you build it, he will come."

"Made it, Ma! Top of the world!"

At $3.99 for 3 days' rental from Amazon, Absinthe is a must-have; at $14.99 to keep the movie it's great value. Enjoy the film, and to Chris and all the others involved in producing Absinthe: santé!

Absinthe in the UK

There's a well-known saying in London about buses: you wait hours for a bus and then three (or more) come along at the same time.

It now appears that this could be true of real, higher quality absinthe with several good - or very good - absinthes all hitting the UK market at the same time.

Industry experts have previously quoted the UK (and Canadian) absinthe market as being effectively still-born with a plethora of "absinthes" on the market with artificial colouring and/or pre-sweetened and/or made using a cold mix system. Co-incidentally the BBC has just aired a programme about so-called nasty ingredients in drinks. So the time appears right in the UK for absinthes that are made to much higher standards, with no artificial colourings etc and with support that focuses on quality, bar staff training, consumer re-education etc.

Of course there are some good absinthes in the UK already, but most are in fairly limited distribution. That's why the news of at least four good absinthes coming to the UK or ramping up their current operations is of great interest.

First out of the blocks and from Switzerland is La Clandestine: first in as much as it has been in limited distribution in the UK up to now.

La Clandestine is probably already known to many of my readers, given my involvement with the brand. So little to more to say, except that I personally see a great opportunity for La Clandestine and the other three newer absinthes to come to the UK.

Next comes Lucid, the first absinthe launched in the USA since prohibition.


Ted Breaux and Jared Gurfein of Viridian Spirits (who are also responsible for La Clandestine in the USA) were recently on a whistlestop tour of London to launch Lucid and it will be fascinating to watch its progress in a new market.

Next up is Maison Fontaine, a new ultra-premium blanche absinthe, made by French distiller Emile Pernot, and the first product from a new company, Metropolitan Spirits.


I enjoyed meeting Sven Olsen, their CEO, in Hong Kong and in Switzerland, and am looking forward to seeing him and Maison Fontaine in London!

Last, but by no means least, is Butterfly. An absinthe that, somewhat paradoxically, is both old and new. Born in Boston in 1902, and now made by the distiller of La Clandestine in Switzerland.


I will relate more of the Butterfly story at a later date: readers interested to know more now may like to read my interview with Brian Fernald, the American from Boston who is behind its renaissance.

As the writer behind the Real Absinthe blog, I am delighted that four very real absinthes will be making waves in the UK over the next few months and beyond. It's good news for absinthe, it's great news for bars who want to experiment with absinthe, and it's wonderful news for UK consumers who have not had so much choice in the past.

Santé to all four absinthes and to those responsible for bringing them to the UK!

And, just a few months later, bars in London are started to have absinthes lists like this (from 22 Below, near Carnaby St.):


Update: To keep up with news and information about absinthe specifically in the UK, there's a new Facebook page intended just for that. Cheers!