Absinthe & Flamethrowers: Dangerous or Not?

When I first read about William Gurstelle's new book, Absinthe & Flamethrowers, my heart sank. The sub-title - Projects and Ruminations on the Art of Living Dangerously - seemed to express everything that responsible absinthe companies want to avoid. Absinthe is NOT dangerous, it doesn't make you mad or give you hallucinations. Absinthe should be consumed just for the pleasure you would get from any great, complex spirit..

And then I thought back to my feelings the first time that I became aware of absinthe being available again. I'd be living in Asia for nearly six years and had completely missed the furore over its UK launch. I saw a bottle on a supermarket shelf in England and I was very surprised, quite shocked, and, yes, a little scared. At the back of my mind there must have been a thought that, yes, absinthe was dangerous ...

So I tried to put myself into the position of someone not in the absinthe business, of someone who had never even tried absinthe while reading the absinthe section of this book. And from that viewpoint, Gurstelle's ruminations on absinthe are well researched, well presented and quickly dispel any notions that one might have of encountering real danger.

Gurstelle's mentor on absinthe is Dr. Dirk Lachenmeier (it could have been a very different chapter had his mentor been Professor Wilfred Arnold), and, with Lachenmeier's help, Gurstelle very quickly establishes that absinthe, drunk responsibly, is not dangerous, but is, in fact, a drink to be enjoyed for what it is, and not for what it does (or doesn't do).

And then comes my favourite part of the absinthe section: Dr. Lachenmeier's top tips for selecting absinthe. In just over one page, Gurstelle lists specific points that separate the "excellent" from the "miserable" (the author's words, not mine). These points provide a good check-list for both absinthe virgins and for those with just a bit of experience. Surprisingly, the list does not include the need to look out for "absinthes" made with added sugar which would not meet 19th century standards for real absinthe.

The section finishes with an excellent absinthe chosen, and poured. I wanted to read Gurstelle's impressions of his absinthe: how did it smell, how did it taste? Could he close his eyes and imagine himself in 19th century Paris or in an Alpine meadow? He opts to leave that to the reader's imagination and maybe that is right .. to leave your readers wanting more.

It is clearly established, therefore, that a well-made 19th century absinthe presented no dangers (other than high alcohol content) and that today's absinthes are no different. It is fitting therefore that absinthe is included in the Minor Vices chapter. I like the link Gurstelle points out between absinthe and making gunpowder, but otherwise it is clear that there is no link between absinthe and danger. Many of the other pursuits explored in this fascinating book are more genuinely dangerous and life-threatening, and Gurstelle takes care to warn his readers about the risks of flame-throwing, eating fuju, etc! I like the philosophy behind the book: a little danger can be good for you, people who take risks in life succeed in life. As the author puts it: "Learning the art of living dangerously ... is an important life skill."

Ignore, then, the isolated review or two that have said that this book talks about making absinthe (that could be dangerous). See some other comments and fuller reviews on Amazon.

Gurstelle concludes his thoughts on absinthe: "A votre santé." To your health too, William!

LeNell does London .....

Last month, I got an email from New York: samples needed, please, for an event in London. LeNell Smothers is talking about absinthe, so I should help ...

Of course I had heard about LeNell; her New York shop, currently closed down, is well-known, and I first saw her talk at a Wine and Spirit exhibition in London, billed as "the legendary LeNell Smothers," so it seemed appropriate to do some more research.

Check out her Forbes interview:

"What is your favorite alcoholic drink?

Are you kidding me? Favorite? That's like asking me what my favorite sex position is."

Mmmm .. maybe not the girl to introduce to my grand-mother (may she rest in peace). But I read on ...

"What is your favorite watering hole?

There's too many to name just one. Montgomery Place in Notting Hill, London, but maybe that's because I'm sleeping with the bartender."

And reading the email again, I discovered the event samples were needed for was at .. Montgomery Place. Interesting ... although I understand that LeNell and the "bartender" have now broken up, yet still work together very well.

Still, orders from New York are not to be ignored so samples were arranged and LeNell rubber stamped my attendance too, provided I was not too "commercial." Which, in hindsight, seems a bit like asking LeNell not to talk about sex.

By chance, I had met another absinthe blogger online a few days beforehand (how coincidental is it that the two UK-based absinthe bloggers live within 5 miles of each other?), so I persuaded Jen to come to London too and also re-met Liqueur de France's Ian Hutton on arriving at Montgomery Place.

LeNell and Ales Olasz (the former "bartender" who actually runs Montgomery Place) were hard at work preparing for the session, and even their preparation was impressive: they had been collating materials for the attendees (including a great resource CD) for several days beforehand. I doubt that many absinthe brand owners would prepare so many materials so methodically.

And then LeNell started her talk to the dozen or so attendees: she had elected to keep numbers down to allow a more personal inter-active session. A session that was highly informative (even for this absinthe "know-it-all"), entertaining and full of passion. It was clear that LeNell loves absinthe, and loves some of the stories and personalities in the business. Some of this passion went a bit far for the stiff upper-lipped British: I had to tell LeNell afterwards that "f****** with someone" means something different in British English, but that was about all I could teach her!

And the absinthes?



Well, we had Cheryl Lins' Meadow of Love (shown above), La Clandestine, Nouvelle-Orléans and Lucid as part of the official tasting PLUS Vieux Pontarlier and Roquette 1797 unofficially. Four of the absinthes currently in the top 7 US-available favourites as reviewed by members of the Wormwood Society (including the 3 highest rated imports). For some reason, the spitoons were not used very much!

And the fact that I was on duty meant that I had to stay for several hours after the presentation finished to sample the absinthes with some meticulously thought-out, complementary dishes, and then had to move onto the newly-created cocktails!

Absinthe Pimm's (or was it Pimps?!)


35 ml La Clandestine absinthe
35 ml Pimm's
Juice of half an orange
1 slice cucumber
2 spoons of cinnamon sugar
Splash of lemonade

Shake all with ice, strain into mug filled with ice, top with lemonade, and garnish with cucumber.


A great sazerac (bottle signed by Cheryl).

Van Gogh Cocktail

67 ml gin
22 ml Vieux Pontarlier Absinthe
Barspoon Blackcurrant Syrup

Shake with ice and strain into a chilled coupe glass.

I also sipped the Celery Fairy Martini, the Absinthe Cargo, and maybe the Mephisto (without Marteau unfortunately).

I managed to make the train home, although as a result of all this work I missed the weekly drunken conversation initiated recently on the Absinthe Review Network's MySpace page!

..............................................................................................................................................................

LeNell is a great presenter and motivator, who knows her absinthes well. I shall put that down to her determination to present with the utmost professionalism, rather than liking her drinks. OK, maybe that too.

After all, who else in the world of absinthe has gone so far as to get a wormwood tattoo?

After a few absinthe cocktails, I summoned up the nerve to ask LeNell about the so-called absinthe Holy Trinity of herbs, and where she had the other plant tattoos. My blog may lay claim to being "an inside view of the absinthe world in the 21st century," but I didn't get an answer to that.

Here's a full list of the cocktails and matching food served on the day:


If any of my readers wants to meet LeNell in person to get answers to that question, or to any other absinthe-related question, then there's an opportunity to do so at the Astor Center in New York on July 10th. Great value for $ 75 and it includes five absinthes and an absinthe cocktail too. To quote AbsintheHour: I definitely recommend you beg, borrow, or steal your way to this!

Absinthe Survey and Lists - USA 2009

I am not as cynical about statistics as the above cartoon might suggest. But until a few months ago, googling "Absinthe Survey" produced nothing more substantial than a survey conducted in 2006 among 100 young adults in Michigan and Paris; since that predates the US commercialization of absinthe, it was of limited relevance. So I was delighted when The Absinthe Review Network (TARN) conducted a survey among 204 American consumers of absinthe in February/March 2009.

The topline results? While this survey focused on just the 20 or so absinthes already in distribution in the USA, it is very heartening to see that American consumers clearly recognise the quality differences that already exist in the market. It is even more encouraging to note that the absinthe consumer found on MySpace (the more "casual" drinker) is likely to recognise quality almost as clearly as the consumer found on the Wormwood Society (the more "committed" drinker).

Since the publication of the TARN survey, other lists and absinthe Top 10's have been compiled. This article does not set out to analyse them to identify the best absinthe or America's favorite absinthe (we all have our own, which could vary from day to day in any case!). I would, however, like to try to pick out the key issues highlighted by TARN and then comment briefly on those other smaller scale surveys and lists.

Firstly, I'd like to amplify some of the points made on TARN:

1. ABSINTHE DRINKERS ARE VERY HEAVY BUYERS OF SPIRITS, SPENDING UP TO TEN TIMES AS MUCH ON SPIRITS AS THE AVERAGE SPIRITS CONSUMER


"The average absinthe drinker in the survey buys 14 bottles of absinthe each year... Given that an individual in the USA drinks on average just 10 bottles of spirits a year, and that the 14 bottle a year absinthe purchaser ALSO purchases other spirits, the average absinthe drinker" (who probably buys at least twice the average number of bottles of spirits in total) "is therefore clearly a very good target for those selling liquor," whether they be bars or retailers. Add to this the fact that a bottle of absinthe costs 4/5 times that of a bottle of Smirnoff or Jack Daniels, and the attractiveness of the absinthe drinker to American bars and retailers should be enormous.

2. THERE IS A MAJOR UNTAPPED ON-PREMISE OPPORTUNITY


"While retailers have opportunities to sell absinthe to more of their customers, bar owners have even greater opportunities. 93% of absinthe drinkers said that they mainly drink absinthe at home or a friend’s home (this includes dorm rooms). When asked to list all the places that they EVER drink absinthe, only 29% cited bars or restaurants. Clearly, there is room for both expansion and improvement in the bar sector."

While recent trends in the US show a sharp move from on-premise to off-premise consumption, these on-premise figures are below industry average for all spirits. On-premise distribution is necessary to build category and individual brand trial since consumers who don't already know absinthe won't risk $70 or more on something they don't know they will like.

3. THE TOP TWO FAVOURITES ARE BOTH "BLEUES"


Thanks to Leif Rogers for Still Life with Absinthe (La Clandestine)

The survey covered 20 absinthes already in the USA. Given the fact that the survey had a disproportionately high number of very "committed" absinthe drinkers and that many may have felt they should include at least one bleue in their five favorite absinthes, bleue styles may have "over-performed" in this survey. In any case, with La Clandestine and Kübler in a statistical dead heat for the top slot (although the latter has wider distribution), it is clear that love of the Green Fairy includes love of the Blue Fairy too!

TARN goes on to comment, "Among those who have tried 3 or fewer brands, Lucid and Kübler are the favorites. For more experienced absinthe drinkers, La Clandestine was named the favorite absinthe by more respondents than any other brand."

and

"Nouvelle-Orléans was launched shortly after the survey started, which was recognized only within some of the sub-surveys conducted. Based on this smaller sample, however, Nouvelle-Orléans could well have proven to be one of the top favourites overall, had it had been available from the beginning of the survey."

I plan to look at portfolio selling of absinthe at a later date (there are now 4 importers with 3 or more absinthes: Viridian, Tempus Fugit, Unique and Admiral), but it is already clear that, for consumers,


Viridian* has put together a portfolio which delivers on their mission "to ensure the American public has access to the finest, truest, most genuine absinthes in the world."

4. VIEWS ON ABSINTHES WITH ADDED ARTIFICIAL COLOURING AND/OR SUGAR


TARN writes "Wormwood Society members were very dismissive of absinthes with artificial coloring and/or added sugar ..... Even MySpace drinkers, who are largely more “casual” drinkers often less aware of the quality standard, were only marginally tolerant towards these brands."

TARN confirms that:-

a) Consumers of such brands are very unlikely to re-purchase them, and

b) Absinthe drinkers who have not yet purchased these brands are very unlikely to do so,

thus also revealing the power of internet communication such as forums, blogs, etc in shaping future trial (or lack of trial).

I do have one concern here: namely that consumers who buy an artificial coloring and/or added sugar brand MAY be less likely to purchase other absinthes subsequently. That is what seems to have happened elsewhere (e.g. Canada and UK) but seems less likely to happen in the USA.

More positively there are signs that at least one high profile brand in this sector in the USA wants to move away from artificial color and added sugar.

5. GLOBAL IMPLICATIONS


The US market has clearly developed in a different way from most other absinthe markets, with an emphasis on 100% natural, distilled absinthes, promoted to be drunk in the traditional manner and in cocktails, both old and new. In many other markets in the world, from Canada, UK, and through most of Europe, the emphasis has been on more artificially-coloured products that are flamed, and marketed on the basis of alleged effects. Having sold or looked at absinthe in around 30 countries over the last 5 years, it is clear to me that businesses based on less natural products, and with a heavy marketing reliance on flaming and effects, may not be sustainable in the 21st century. TARN concludes as follows:-

"The future of absinthe for decades to come is being determined right now. What we decide to do-or not do-could be the difference between having readily-available quality absinthe at our fingertips, or wormwood-flavoured vodka at select bars a decade from now. Will you allow the misconceptions and faux absinthe products to continue to erode the reputation of absinthe, or do what‘s within your power to improve it? The decision rests with you."

I think TARN is a little too pessimistic: I didn't see too many signs of the so-called "faux absinthes" having any great success - or prospects - in the US market. Indeed I think that the US success of real absinthes will prove a great wake-up call for higher quality absinthes in other markets around the world.

6. OTHER SURVEYS

After I drafted this article, a number of other surveys and lists of absinthes in the USA have appeared, although none are as detailed as the TARN Survey.

The principal surveys/lists are:

a) The Absinthe Devil poll of 81 respondents in which the favorite absinthes were:

1. La Clandestine (21%)
2. Jade Nouvelle-Orleans (16%)

Interesting to see Nouvelle-Orléans performing so well here (confirming TARN's prediction that it would have done better in his survey had that been held later).

b) The Wormwood Society list of the highest reviewed absinthes available in the USA. In this list (compiled by taking the average review score given by Wormwood Society members), the top 4 absinthes are all US-distilled (Pacifique, Marteau and two Delaware Phoenix absinthes), followed by La Clandestine (the highest rated import), Vieux Pontarlier and Nouvelle-Orléans.

c) A list of 10 absinthes preferred by New York Times wine critic, Eric Asimov, and 3 colleagues and/or industry insiders. This seems to have surprised a number of those who have commented on Mr. Asimov's blog published at the same time. Of the six lists quoted here, the NYT list is the only one to include Grande Absente and one of only two to include Pernod Absinthe in their top 10. Other than that Kübler and all the Viridian brands also make the top 10, but the NYT has not listed the other absinthes that failed to make the top 10 (they tasted 20). Only one US-distilled absinthe (St. George) made the top 10.

d) Mutineer Magazine have published another list of 10 top absinthes (see pages 58 - 63), selected with the help of the Wormwood Society. This list contains four US-distilled absinthes, as well as 4 from Switzerland and 1 each from France and Spain. 3 of the list are not yet available in the USA. Brian will comment more on the compilation of this article soon (I hope!).

e) Finally, Drinkhacker, which has now featured 17 reviews and features about absinthes, re-visited 7 absinthes, and listed 3 other favorites. Obsello and La Clandestine top this list and Drinkhacker adds Vieux Carré, Nouvelle-Orléans, and St. George to his list of the best absinthe brands.” It is especially interesting to see how Drinkhacker has significantly changed his mind on one of the products tasted previously ....

7. SUMMARY

This commentary on the TARN survey was initially intended to highlight the opportunities for absinthe in the USA; the publication of other "Top 10" lists suggested an additional need to get all of those surveys and lists in one easy reference place.

I would be the first to admit my own fascination with lists, whether they be sporting achievements, lists of the wealthiest, best selling, biggest, etc.

Is this list of lists highly significant? Well, topping a list of preferred drinks is no guarantee of success in the market. And top-selling drinks do not often top the popularity lists, especially the lists voted for by aficionados. Patron Silver is the 73rd most popular Silver/Blanco Tequila listed on Tequila.net, but that hasn't stopped it dominating the ultra-premium tequila market!

To me, more than the top 10's voted for or chosen here, the key findings in all these surveys are the focus on high quality, the lower ratings of some of the brands highlighted by the TARN survey, and, most of all, the big opportunities in the US absinthe market. The first two years of absinthe in the USA has been an exciting time for absinthe lovers: the years to come (and the lists to come!) promise many more surprises and pleasures!

To be continued ...

* Declaration of writer's interest: my connection with La Clandestine is probably clear to readers. Note that La Clandestine's US importer, Viridian, is also the brand owner and importer of Lucid and the importer of Nouvelle-Orléans.

What type of absinthe are you?

Google Absinthe Quiz and you will find a few interesting quizzes about absinthe (Edit: Google works quickly. This article was the top result within an hour of being posted). Several of the quizzes I tried had inaccurate answers, especially on thujone and "how to drink" questions, and in any case I didn't want to create just another quiz about absinthe. I wanted to create a quiz about you, my readers.

So, if you are on Facebook, you may enjoy this little quiz I created. What type of absinthe are you?

1. Just answer five multiple choice questions: about champagne, why you drink absinthe, your favourite colour, what you did last night (BEFORE going to bed!) and how you would describe yourself,
2. Submit your answers,
3. Send the quiz to some of your Facebook friends (or skip this stage), and
4. You get to see what type of absinthe you are.
5. Finally you can then choose whether or not to add this your Facebook profile.

The quiz is designed to be fun and a little educational, even if it's possible some may disagree with the results. If you are a committed absinthe drinker, "ahead of the curve" in which brands you drink, with a bar with over 30 different absinthes which you drink regularly, then you may not need this quiz. Of course, if you drink that heavily, you may not be able to finish the quiz anyway!

And now for the real inspiration for this quiz ... discovering in Los Angeles in March that I really am an absinthe. The generous donor of this bottle should know by now that I am not a Verte!



Caveat: I know a few people may not like adding Facebook applications (especially when seeing their standard disclaimer). The only information that I get to see as the developer of the quiz is a list of who has done the quiz, and what type of absinthe they are. When I get a few more users, I may get a statistical breakdown of users by age, gender etc, but I doubt that I can put that to much use! If you feel strongly about Facebook and privacy, then why not add to the debate about applications there? I also liked this article about Facebook applications, especially the opening line, "The way people talk publicly about Facebook's application platform, you'd think Jesus used it to invite his apostles to the Last Supper."

Anyway, enough of Facebook pros and cons, time for a glass and to try the quiz. Santé et bon courage! And please feel free to come back here to comment on it ...