Apologies, first of all, to those of you who have already celebrated Mothers' Day this year. Mother's Day is a very complicated event, celebrated on more than 30 different dates throughout the year (mothers in Indonesia have to wait until December 22). For those of my readers in the USA, Switzerland, Australia, most of Europe, the Caribbean, Asia and South America, who are all celebrating Mother's Day on May 12 in 2013, I want to explore the connection between absinthe and mothers to celebrate this particular Mother's Day.
Absinthe was first made by women in Switzerland, including the most famous absinthe mother of all, Mère Henriod (Suzanne-Marguerite), with her two daughters.
Given absinthe's early use as a medicinal cure-all, it is not surprising that mothers looking after their families were so influential at making absinthe.
It is perhaps more surprising that when absinthe was banned in Switzerland (and almost globally), it was again Swiss mothers who were responsible for keeping absinthe alive. The excellent Duvallon blog writes about some of them, including
Malotte, Calotte (otherwise known as Charlotte Vaucher, the creator of La Clandestine absinthe), and
Marta. In these cases, it seems that while their husbands were working, it was one more task for the wives (and mothers) to keep the family stocked with absinthe!
So with all these mothers involved in the history of absinthe, it is interesting that the phrase "Mother's Ruin" has historically been used for gin. In October 2012 I had the pleasure to visit Mother's Ruin in Manhattan, and it seems that this bar is very popular with many New York bartenders. Great ambience and great bartending.
And it was this Mother's Ruin that led Jay Newell, Bars Manager at London's Soho House, to create his own version of a Mother's Ruin cocktail. Given the name's gin roots, it is appropriate that the main spirit base is Bombay Sapphire, complemented by Apricot Liqueur and La Clandestine Absinthe. Perceptively, Jay comments that the use of absinthe in this cocktail "hits on a huge trend that is influencing the cocktail scene in London at the moment." Interesting that this trend comes 13 or so years after absinthe first returned to London, since it is only now that there are several companies in the UK who are promoting a higher standard of absinthe (distilled, not cold mix, and with no artificial colours or sweeteners). A trend that seems likely to lead to be repeated elsewhere with brands like Pernod Absinthe now moving to a more natural recipe.
Jay's cocktail marrying gin and absinthe is in fact reminiscent of many of the cocktails in the 1930 Savoy Hotel Cocktail Book. Of the 105 Savoy cocktails that contain absinthe, around 50% of them also contain gin. Jay's cocktail is part of a new trend, but also echoes a 1930 trend. But more of that later.
In the meantime, I'll be celebrating Mother's Day with a Mother's Ruin. Santé, Jay!
Having sold and promoted wines, champagne and cognac with food in the UK and in Asia for brands including Krug and Remy Martin, I was always keen to explore the idea of an Absinthe Dining event. There are a lot of misguided pre-conceptions about absinthe, so an Absinthe Dinner could help overcome those and also prove to be a memorable event.
In fact, after absinthe dinners in Asia, Europe and most recently the USA, I'm convinced that combining good absinthes with good food works perfectly. There's something in the herbal mix that goes into good absinthes that makes them a perfect fit with great food. I'm equally convinced that there's NO point in pairing some of the more "one dimensional" absinthes that may just look pretty (artificial colours do that) with the skills of a good cook!
So how should one plan for an absinthe dinner? These notes were originally written for restaurant owners and managers and those organising bigger events, but much of it is relevant for absinthe lovers organising dinner parties for friends at home.
Firstly, remember that when diluted with chilled water or in many cocktails, absinthe may be no stronger than a glass of wine. So don't worry too much about that (but, as ever, make sure that people who have been indulging don't drive afterwards).
Secondly, note that an absinthe dinner can include both drinks to accompany the food, and dishes made with absinthe. And that those drinks need not necessarily be limited to the traditional absinthe serve or absinthe cocktails. Our recent US dinner focused on a range of absinthe cocktails, both classic and modern, to complement the dinner, and that's a great way to do it. But not the only way, as my UK dinner proved!
So what would a typical absinthe dinner look like?
Apéritifs
If a dinner would normally start with an apéritif, then there are plenty of absinthe options.
The Death in the Afternoon above (or a variant) works perfectly, and is a real surprise to those who don't know absinthe well.
are an excellent start to the dinner itself, and a small top-up of the Death in the Afternoon can accompany it, if required. There are some good alternatives, using the Rockefeller inspiration, such as the Scampi Rockefeller shown here.
A ricotta cheese stuffed ravioli, with fresh and dried tomato and lemon olive oil
I'm not a cook, so I can only report what I've seen - and enjoyed - elsewhere. It seems that the herbal notes of an absinthe (especially the anise, the fennel and the grande wormwood) work especially well with the type of food dishes that work well with those plants. For instance, a salmon dish works well with fennel, so the classic absinthe drip cocktail works very well alongside salmon.
And this hollandaise sauce made with absinthe seems to go very well with roast beef. While a more robust dish - in this case a goat curry - works well with a more robust style of absinthe,
served here in the Calmer: Angélique Absinthe, dill, cucumber, elderflower and cava blended with crushed ice.
This Casserole de Poulet with pan-fried spatzle, glazed shallot and carrot was accompanied by a classic fountain-served Angélique absinthe.
Desserts
Lots of options here! When I enjoyed a Crème Brûlée, as served in the café near the Artemisia Distillerie in Couvet, it was the only time I have seen a Swiss distiller set fire to his absinthe. And it worked excellently. At a UK absinthe event we enjoyed Fairy Delight: Coconut and Butterfly Absinthe Ice Cream with Fig Tarte Tatin ..
.. while my friends in Denmark seem to love pancakes made with absinthe egg nog! Theatre The absinthe ritual is a wonderful way to present it at dinner, and I was impressed to see an absinthe fountain bought to every table at one event. The absinthe balancier can be just as dramatic, even a little mesmerising, and doesn't stop love-struck diners looking into each other's eyes the way a fountain does. Theatre can go much further, however, and I love the way this UK restaurant prepared
a pre-made Sazerac bottle to be shared by each couple, with a spray of absinthe added to each glass. Theatrical ... and it saved time since the restaurant did not have to make lots of sazeracs at the end of dinner. And it's a nice touch to have all the plants available and some literature ..
Summary
Finally, how can an enterprising restaurant manager or owner organise such an event? Firstly, talk to an absinthe company that has organised similar events in the past. Ideally try to find a company that can provide some different styles and make sure you have the opportunity to experiment with the products well in advance. As far as price is concerned, consumers do not expect absinthe to be cheap, so make sure you at least cover your costs. The events shown here (UK and USA) were both priced at around $ 60 (plus tax).
There are a few more absinthe and food suggestions shown on this ever-expanding Pinterest board. Hopefully there will be many additions to come.
And I would not be at all surprised if after future dinners I get the same reaction and feedback heard already. "I never knew you could do so much with absinthe," "That completely changed my view of absinthe," etc.
More news later as and when it emerges. At this stage, it is surprising to see no mention of this anywhere apart from on the well-respected Shanken News site.
No doubt absinthe connoisseurs will want to know what this means for the other brands sold by Viridian, i.e. Ted Breaux's Jades, as well as the people concerned. Viridian also helped launch La Clandestine in the USA in 2008, and although La Clandestine has subsequently moved to DC Craft Spirits, I am grateful for Viridian's early help.
Here are the press releases issued by the companies concerned:
Hood River Distillers, Inc. Acquires Lucid Absinthe Supérieure
Northwest’s largest importer of distilled spirits maintains expansion momentum, adds absinthe to
premium portfolio
HOOD RIVER, Ore. (March 15, 2013) – Continuing its national rise as an innovative leader in the spirits industry, Hood River Distillers, Inc. announced today its agreement with Viridian Spirits LLC to acquire Lucid Absinthe Supérieure. Lucid is the first genuine absinthe to be legally available in the United States in over 95 years. Launched in 2007, Lucid is an authentic absinthe crafted and distilled at the historical Combier Distillery, founded in 1834 in Saumur, France. Lucid is formulated by world renowned absinthe expert T.A. Breaux, and is distilled in strict accordance to traditional French methods.
“We are committed to offering a diverse portfolio of premium, quality spirits,” said Ronald Dodge, Hood River Distillers president and CEO. "All of our brands are rooted in history, heritage and authenticity, so the addition of Lucid to our brand roster is a natural fit. We look forward to its strong future in the U.S.”
Unlike many contemporary imitators, Lucid is naturally green in color and features a full measure of Grande Wormwood (Artemesia absinthium), green anise, sweet fennel, and other culinary herbs representative of
European traditions and historical absinthe. Each bottle of Lucid is carefully prepared by skilled craftsmen, using ancient copper absinthe alembics.
For more information about Hood River Distillers, Inc., visit www.hrdspirits.com or contact the sales and marketing office at 503.574.3693 or hrdsales@hrdspirits.com.
About Lucid
Launched in 2007, Lucid Absinthe Supérieure (SRP $59.99/750ml) was the first genuine absinthe made with Grande Wormwood to be legally available in the United States since 1912. Lucid is distilled in strict accordance to traditional French methods, in the historic Combier distillery (Loire Valley, France), founded in 1834 and designed by Gustave Eiffel. Lucid is distilled entirely from spirits and European whole herbs and uses no artificial additives, oils, or dyes. Lucid is ideal in both traditional and modern absinthe drinking methods. Visit Lucid at www.drinklucid.com.
About Hood River Distillers
Founded in 1934 and headquartered in Hood River, Ore., Hood River Distillers is the Northwest’s largest and oldest importer, producer, bottler, and marketer of distilled spirits. Pendleton Whisky, 1910 Rye Whisky, Broker’s London Dry Gin, SinFire Cinnamon Whisky, Yazi Ginger Vodka, ULLR Nordic Libation, HRD Vodka, Lucid Absinthe Supérieure, and the complete line of Monarch distilled spirits are just a few of the company’s brands distributed across the country. Hood River Distillers is a member of the Century Council and promotes responsible drinking habits. For more information, visit www.hrdspirits.com. LUCID ABSINTHE, THE BRAND THAT BROKE THE BAN,
ACQUIRED BY HOOD RIVER DISTILLERS
March 18, 2013 / New York: Viridian
Spirits, LLC today announced the sale of Lucid Absinthe Supérieure to Hood
River Distillers, Inc. effective immediately.
Lucid Absinthe is the brand that ‘broke the ban’ after Viridian’s
founders lobbied the U.S. government, making absinthe legal in the U.S. as of
2007. Developed from 19th
century absinthe recipes by T.A. Breaux and still hand-crafted in antique
copper pot stills, Lucid is made from whole European herbs at the Gustave
Eiffel-designed Combier distillery in France’s Loire Valley, without any
artificial colors or flavors, making it -- by historical definition -- one of
the most authentic absinthes available today.
Lucid is also the world’s best selling absinthe, sold in all 50 U.S.
states and throughout the world.
Lucid’s combination of being first to market, the quality in the
bottle, its eye-catching packaging which pays homage to Toulouse-Lautrec’s
iconic “Le Chat Noir” painting, and dedicated, clever sales and marketing
campaigns over the years earned Lucid its enviable position as the absinthe
category leader. This independent brand
is a classic David vs. the Goliath brands that are part of much larger,
multi-national companies.
Jared Gurfein, a corporate lawyer and co-founder of Viridian who
spearheaded the effort to overturn the Federal ban says, “We are happy that
Lucid is going to a great home with Hood River Distillers, and will always have
the brand in our hearts. We were very
proud to make history and shape the spirits industry when we overturned the
ban.” Co-founder and industry veteran
Jonathan Bonchick says, “To achieve what we achieved as an independent brand on
a reasonably small investment is really impressive, and simply speaks to the
quality of the product.” Co-founder
Eddie Soleymani says, “For Jared and myself, Lucid was our first foray into
spirits. We were fortunate to enter the
industry with an historical accomplishment and a successful product – no small
feat in the face of the worst recession in a generation.” Jared and Jon are already working on their
next project, which they intend to be “another groundbreaking achievement,”
while Eddie is continuing his entrepreneurial career with several other startup
ventures both within and outside of the spirits business.
Established in 1934 in Hood River, Oregon, Hood River Distillers began
by making fruit wines and brandies from the apples, pears, and berries that
were going to waste as excess production from the valley’s abundant
harvests. Located beside the Columbia
River with majestic Mt. Hood as its backdrop, Hood River Distillers has been at
its current bottling facility since 1968.
The largest and oldest importer, producer, bottler, and marketer of
spirits in the northwest – a particularly strong market for absinthe – the company’s
portfolio includes Pendleton Whisky, SinFire Cinnamon Whisky, and Broker’s London Dry Gin, among others. “The
groundbreaking advancements Lucid achieved in the U.S. is something we have admired and respected for some time now,” said Ronald Dodge, Hood
River Distillers president and CEO. “We are proud to have the
history that comes with this product included in our portfolio of premium,
heritage brands, and we’re excited about its future.”
In closing,
the typically understated Breaux says:
“I greatly enjoyed working with Viridian, and look forward to working
with Hood River Distillers.”
There is no hidden significance in my use of the above photo in an article called "Absinthe Antiques!" From left to right, it shows me, Kamal Mukherjee of DrinkUp NY, Scott MacDonald (more about him in a second), and Maxwell Britten of Maison Premiere. We're at Maison Premiere here. It's a rare photo showing four absinthe "movers and shakers," none of whom seem to be drinking absinthe. To be fair to us (and our livers), some of us had started drinking absinthe a little earlier (Maison Premiere's Happy Hour offer of $1 oysters is a must) and some of us would be seen drinking absinthe cocktails a few hours later in Battery Park!
This was the first time one of the most important US absinthe retailers (Kamal) had met with one of the most important US absinthe mixologists (Maxwell). It was also the first time I had met with fellow absinthe forum member, Scott, and it is always great to find fellow absinthe lovers several thousand miles from home. Scott makes and designs guitars for a living (what a nice job!) and indulges his love of hand-crafted absinthe and the paraphernalia surrounding absinthe in many of his spare time moments. And now he is becoming well-known in his own right as the author of Absinthe Antiques: A Collection from la Belle Époque.
Scott kindly arranged an advance digital copy of the revised edition of Absinthe Antiques for me a few weeks ago, and I have been enjoying it enormously. If some people can derive a lot pleasure drinking absinthe by feeling that they are enjoying history (and absinthe has more than its fair share of history), then what better way to enjoy that history by drinking absinthe in antique glasses, using antique spoons, antique pourers etc? Sadly, however, while most of my readers can access good absinthe at a variety of prices, it is not possible for all of us to enjoy drinking them using antiques. Which is where Scott's book comes in. In sumptuous details, he shares with us an "orgy" of antiques, from fountains
through spoons
and glasses,
and many, many other types of advertising ephemera that you need to read about and to see to understand.
All with just the right amount of accompanied text to get the reader involved in the subject!
Eagle-eyed readers will have noticed that this is the revised edition. However, it's much more than just "the Director's Cut." At 221 pages with more than 300 photographs, it is more than twice as long as the first edition. This also has new chapters on postcards, art, antique bottles, the Pontarlier Museum's absinthe exhibit and the absinthe antiques market at the Absinthiades (sorry to say, Scott, that with the new Absinthe Museum opening in the Val-de-Travers in 2013, you may need to add a section on that too!).
I asked Scott what was his vision of the book, and his reply was illuminating. "What seems to happen for many reading it is this: they come away with a deeper understanding of what absinthe is and was, despite it being a book about the pieces used in its service. It's almost as if it is a round-about way of seeing absinthe through the eyes of its history. The spirit of the Belle Époque is clear in these antiques, as is the romantic way I feel about them."
And, to me, it's clear that Scott's vision has been achieved here.
To describe Absinthe Antiques as a coffee table book might be accurate, but it doesn't do the book justice. Yes, it's a great book to have at home to dip into from time to time. But it's also one of those rare books in which the passion of the author for his subject is clear on every page. You can see Scott's love for his antiques in the way he has organised his compositions ... the backgrounds, the lighting, the shots themselves and the whole layout of the book.
And at a time when many things are becoming smaller (iPad minis etc), it's nice to find it's a big book too, as this photo makes clear (11" x 8.5," so 17" wide when opened).
Two final comments.
Since it's a book about antiques, it might have been interesting to have told the reader how much the items shown actually cost (or maybe a range of costs). That would have made it an even more useful reference work, although I know it is not always easy to put an accurate value on antiques. And maybe the prices would have scared people! I put this point to Scott, and his eloquent response was that he did not want to talk about something that has nothing to do with the spirit and original purpose of the antiques. He prefers to celebrate the antiques, rather than to demean them with a monetary value. In any case, "For the price of a couple of bottles of absinthe, one can easily find a full service for two of very nice spoons, saucers and glasses!"
A nice detail for the French (and those in the French-speaking part of Switzerland): the book includes a complete French translation (by Marc Thuillier) via an appendix.
And here's my favourite photo, which serves so well to illustrate the care Scott has taken with details: an Everett upright grand piano, born between 1900 and 1905 in Boston, birthplace of the vintage American absinthe Butterfly of the same era (that's NOT a pre-ban Butterfly here!).
Finally, reader, beware. Some of the more unscrupulous online absinthe "dealers" exaggerate the completely irrelevant "drug" side of absinthe. Absinthe Antiques, however, could well prove addictive, and you may find yourself scouring the markets for antiques every weekend ...
Almost three years after the April Fool's Day blogs (mine and the original French spoof) about Pernod bringing back the original Pernod Fils, it looks like this - or something like it - may eventually be happening. On March 5th, 2013, the TTB issued their approval of the following labels:
Absinthe lovers will note the inclusion of the words "The Original Recipe," the fact that Pernod clearly states that their 1805 distillery is France's first absinthe distillery (and not the first absinthe distillery in the world which was in Switzerland a few years earlier), the mention of plants being distilled in wine alcohol, and the disappearance - at last - of the artificial colours that have been in Pernod Absinthe up to now.
I, for one, am delighted that Pernod have at last removed the artificial colours. Several other high volume absinthes still use artificial colours, and maybe this will force them to ditch them too. Artificial colours are a short-cut that provides a cheaper cost and a sub-standard product. Companies using them have had an unfair cost advantage over those companies that have chosen to make traditional absinthe in the original way.
In fact, I tasted what I was told was the new Pernod product a few weeks ago, and it was clearly a significant improvement on the current product.
Pernod's new, old recipe may well herald improved standards globally in the category and the consumer is the ultimate winner!
As part of my preparation for this seminar, I recently purchased
The Deans of Drink, a brand new book by well-known cocktail historians, Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller. It is a fascinating book with an amazing amount of information about the Savoy's Harry Craddock (now known to have been born in England) and about Harry Johnson, whose "New and Improved Bartenders' Manual" of 1882 is a classic. Mixologists and bartenders with any sense of history will already know Harry Johnson's book and many will have a re-print. For me, it gives a very interesting perspective on how absinthe was perceived in the USA towards the end of the 19th century, and, in particular, how it was served. Following a long list of the different liquors that are required in a Bar Room (primarily whisk(e)y, brandy, rum and gin), the book lists the principal cordials used for mixing drinks. This list starts as follows:-
Absinthe (green and white)
and this is one of the few times that a classic cocktail book distinguishes between the two. Even today, that doesn't always happen.
While Harry Johnson's book doesn't contain as many absinthe cocktails as The Savoy, it contains two (and a bit) intriguing pages about how to mix absinthe.
Without a time machine, it can be difficult to know how drinks were perceived and served over 130 years ago, but these pages (and the rest of the book) come close to providing that insight on absinthe in the USA at that time. Absinthe was clearly seen as a "normal" drink, with no hint of green fairies! The so-called old French style does not include sugar, while the other styles have several different ways of sweetening the absinthe. "American or frozen absinthe" resembles today's Absinthe Frappé as drunk in the USA, (although it is different from Craddock's Absinthe Frappé). And, surprise, surprise (!), there is no mention of fire.
So why is this post entitled Back to the Future? Because in providing an insight into the past, Harry Johnson and other famous cocktail practitioners and writers of the past are inspiring what happens in some of the top bars today. And I see this as a trend that will continue to grow.
Here are two very recent instances of their influence:
Last week, March 1st was the 8th anniversary of the Swiss re-legalisation of absinthe. And March 5th was the 6th anniversary of Lucid's label approval, an event now marked by some as USA's National Absinthe Day. One excellent bar in Canada (Clive's Classic in Victoria, BC) marked both events with a special absinthe menu, stating on Facebook:
"This begins tonight! We are doing 5 days to celebrate National/International Absinthe Day/s. March 1st is for Europe and March 5th for the US, so we decided to bridge it."
Fascinating to see the French, American and Italian styles itemised here, with details very similar to Harry Johnson's. And across on the other side of the continent, this is the absinthe menu, officially launched in February, at New York's Dead Rabbit Bar:
Great to see Harry Johnson and other famous bartenders/writers (Jerry Thomas, William T. Boothby, O.H. Byron, George Winter, and C.F. Lawlor) credited here.
And fascinating to see that in both Clive's Classic and the Dead Rabbit, these are essentially variations on the absinthe sweetened with sugar and with iced water theme, almost identical to Harry Johnson's drinks.
I am often asked "how else can we serve absinthe?" "How else," apart from the classic absinthe drip (with fountain, balancier or carafe)? "How else," apart from Craddock's 105 cocktails with absinthe? "How else," apart from the hundreds of absinthe cocktails created daily, it seems, by the world's bartenders? For me, going back to the past provides great inspiration for the future, and I would recommend following the examples - and drink suggestions - of Harry Johnson, Jerry Thomas, Harry Craddock, etc.
"How else?" To quote Harry Craddock: "Here's How!"
a classic cocktail to enjoy at any time. In fact since then I have enjoyed this at Boston's backbar, and was also pleased to see Boston's Royal Sonesta making a ready bottled version!
This Halloween, I want to look at another classic absinthe cocktail, and to see how it might be twisted to make it even more suitable for Halloween: the famous Death in the Afternoon, invented by Ernest Hemingway. The cocktail shares its name with Hemingway's book Death in the Afternoon, and the recipe was first published in So Red the Nose, or Breath in the Afternoon, a 1935 cocktail book with contributions from famous authors (coincidentally 1935 was the year when La Clandestine Absinthe was born). Hemingway's original instructions were:
"Pour one jigger absinthe into a Champagne glass. Add iced Champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly."
I have always enjoyed Death in the Afternoon, but have also been aware that it might be a little dry for some people's tastes, especially if using a top quality champagne. So I was pleased to have the opportunity to try an interesting variation on this when my US partners visited us in Switzerland recently and suggested using a Swiss sparkling rosé to make a Death in the Afternoon.
Maybe it was the rosé itself (a little over-powering), or maybe it was the temperature of the rosé (ambient), but although it looks gorgeous, this didn't quite work. So with Halloween approaching, I tried again, this time with a Jacob's Creek sparkling rosé, which is probably easier to find in most countries. And to add some atmosphere, I dug out my daughters' Halloween straws and dimmed the lights ...
First the jigger of La Clandestine Absinthe, then top up with the sparkling rosé (I did top it up, but the members of the tasting panel sampled it before I could take my next photograph).
Nice colour, but maybe for Halloween, it needed a bit more drama. And so I added a few drops of blood ...
a.k.a. Grenadine.
Perfect to look at ...
... and perfect to taste. Not too dry and not too sweet, with the absinthe and sparkling rosé working very well together.
Of course a good cocktail needs a good name. I thought about calling this a Bloody Death in the Afternoon, but that might make people think it contains tomato juice. And for Halloween, I think a murder sounds better than death. It's definitely not an afternoon drink either, hence the final name .. Murder in the Evening. If you like a Death in the Afternoon, I think you'll love this. At Halloween or at any time.
Whenever I get the chance to talk with others about absinthe, then I'll accept the offer, start right away, and it's almost impossible to stop me. It's the part of the "job" (if you can call it a "job") that I like best. It beats selling, it beats paperwork and it certainly beats all those pesky tax returns!
However, one day I may have to face up to the fact that I cannot talk about absinthe with everyone who's interested in it in all of the 25 countries currently selling La Clandestine. And that's not even factoring in my language skills (or lack of). And that is why it's so important that I talk as much as I can with those in the front line for absinthe: bartenders and shop staff.
So today's article is for some of them, and at the risk of offending the shop staff, especially in liquor stores, off-licences, cavistes etc. I'll focus this time on bartenders. Using the term to include bartenders, wait staff, sommeliers, managers and owners and to include staff in bars, clubs, restaurants and hotels. If I say "he," it means "he" or "she" or "they."
Preamble over ... what do bartenders need to know? And what do they need to do to be able to make the most of the absinthe selling opportunity?
1. KNOW THE PRODUCT(S), INCLUDING TOPLINE INFORMATION ON HOW ABSINTHE IS MADE AND WHAT'S IN IT, AND EVEN MORE INFORMATION ON THE CATEGORY'S HISTORY
No need to be too scientific about this: the Wikipedia article is fine.
Distilled absinthe
Distilled absinthe employs a method of production not unlike high quality gin. Botanicals are initially macerated in distilled base alcohol before being redistilled to exclude bitter principles, and impart the desired complexity and texture to the spirit.
The distillation of absinthe first yields a colourless distillate that leaves the alembic at around 72 % ABV. The distillate may be reduced and bottled clear, to produce a Blanche or la Bleue absinthe, or it may be coloured to create a verte using natural or artificial colouring. Traditional absinthes obtain their green colour strictly from the chlorophyll of whole herbs, which is extracted from the plants during the secondary maceration. This step involves steeping plants such as petite wormwood, hyssop, and melissa (among other herbs) in the distillate. Chlorophyll from these herbs is extracted in the process, giving the drink its famous green colour.
The history of absinthe is fascinating and is a key part of why consumers - your customers - are interested to find out about absinthe. You can buy the Absinthe Encyclopedia, read Barnaby Conrad's Absinthe: History in a Bottle shown above, watch the film "Absinthe," or, the best value option (said modestly), even get me along to talk about it. I have addressed the history side of absinthe (along with a few issues resulting from that) in my 10 key facts series on this blog, and that's a big part of what I share with people I meet.
So why is the history so interesting, even more relevant than knowing what's in absinthe? Put simply, and using the words of a former boss of mine: "Sell the sizzle, not the sausage." Your customers are much more interested in everything around absinthe (including the myths and half-truths which you can correct) than knowing every last detail of what's in it.
2. CHOOSE YOUR ABSINTHES WITH CARE
If your bar or restaurant sells a range of single malts, XO Cognac, some 100% blue agave tequilas, and some craft spirits, you can probably consider a range of absinthes to complement the rest of your list. Top bars, especially in Europe, may not always want to carry the absinthe(s) that can be found in every local shop, and with the wide range of absinthes available nowadays you can choose a range that suits your bar, your needs, and your customers' expectations.
As a bare minimum, carry a verte and a blanche. Some customers expect the green fairy to be green or at least "greenish;" others will probably find a good "blanche" to be a softer introduction to absinthe while many bartenders find blanches to be more versatile in a wider range of cocktails (It's not just me saying that: the famous Bariana Guide - the first French cocktail book - recommends blanches over vertes in several of its cocktails).
Develop and segment your absinthe list, either by country or by colour. A country split allows you to tell some of the history about Swiss origins and how Swiss moonshiners kept absinthe alive during the ban; and about French development, the green hour, the artists and the ban. And in some countries such as the USA, you can use a country split to tell the story of a locally made absinthe or two.
Select a range of tastes, from herbaceous to floral, from slightly more bitter to slightly sweeter.
If you only have 3 absinthes, make sure you can explain the differences to your customers. If you stock more than 20 absinthes ... make sure you can explain the differences to your customers!
Absinthes should be a good revenue earner for bars, so it normally makes sense to stock premium quality absinthes, rather than trying to save a few dollars per bottle. Absinthe lovers are loyal to the category, and loyal to the brands they love, so bars can use that to make customers loyal to them too. Absinthe lovers are big spenders, whether buying a traditional serve absinthe or absinthe in a cocktail, so keep them loyal!
3. SERVE ABSINTHE IN UP TO THREE DIFFERENT WAYS: THE PERFECT POUR (Traditional fountain, dripper, carafe method), IN CLASSIC COCKTAILS, AND IN MODERN MIXES.
To repeat that ..
PERFECT POUR
CLASSIC COCKTAILS
MODERN MIXES
The Perfect Pour, serving absinthe the traditional way via a fountain, dripper or carafe, is what your customers who are discovering absinthe want to see. Troy Clarke from the Royal Sonesta, Boston, home of the ArtBar, confirms that the correct serving of absinthe is a key element. The ritual of the absinthe serve conveys all the history in an eye-catching way that will attract other customers in the bar to absinthe. Fountains and drippers are part of that, but what really intrigues customers is watching the "louche," the way the absinthe turns cloudy when chilled water is added slowly.
A carafe (which was evidently good enough for Van Gogh) ...
or a jug (provided it can be used to do a slow pour) can work just as well as a fountain (with less risk of breakage), and ideally your customer should be allowed to add the water himself. Recommend they pour it as slowly as possible, adding too little water to start with (2 - 3 parts of water with a 53% blanche, 3 - 4 parts of water with a 65% verte) on the basis that it's easier to add more water, than to take it out! After the first addition of water, they should taste and add more water to find what works for them. Like tea or coffee, we all have different preferences.
Sugar and spoon? They are fun, maybe, but after 8 years tasting lots of absinthes, I've come to the conclusion that most good absinthes don't need sugar, and that sugar is mainly required to paper over the cracks of less good absinthes. Again, that may be more a reflection of my own tastes, but it is generally accepted that the better blanches in particular really don't need sugar (and the same goes for Butterfly).
Classic Cocktails with absinthe, almost all of which are listed here, are a must. One day, a bar will produce a printed cocktail menu offering all 104 cocktails containing absinthe from the 1930 Savoy Hotel Cocktail book (that's a challenge!), but in the meantime, make sure you can offer some of the basics, including
the Sazerac, the Corpse Reviver # 2, the Absinthe Frappée, as well as the slightly more modern
Death in the Afternoon (I am sure good bartenders will be able to work on a much longer list than these basic classics). I also like to see how some bartenders introduce their own personal twist to the classics.
Modern mixes, using ingredients that were rare or even non-existent in the classic cocktail era. Using methods that come from other countries. Using molecular mixology. Drinks such as the Absinthe Mojito. And the Absinthe Caipirinha ... or as I like to call it the Clandestino.
Modern mixes may be how you can make a powerful statement as to what your bar is. They don't have to be over-complicated, and may just capitalise on, for example, the fruit bases that are available nowadays. We have found that some bars love to work with Butterfly Absinthe, because the citrus/mint elements work really well in modern fruit-focused cocktails.
And here is a great way to communicate exactly that three way split of how to offer absinthe from the Onyx Lounge, LA.
4. HANDLING CUSTOMERS WHO KNOW "BETTER"
An interesting topic, raised in the comments by Evan Camomile, another absinthe blogger. As he writes: "One thing every bartender will have to deal with is the customer who erroneously "knows better" and wants absinthe lit on fire or served in a shot." I guess you can add to that list the customer who wants to know the thujone content of an absinthe, and insists that this will influence his/her buying decision. There is a school of thought that says "the customer is always right," but in this instance I feel that a bartender will gain business for his bar in the long run by gently trying to persuade the customer of the error of his ways.
As far as a request for fire is concerned, a bartender could respond "We have a Health and Safety policy of not setting fire to any drinks in our bar, and in any case we believe that a burnt caramel taste does not improve good absinthes. Can we suggest you try absinthe the classic way as it was drunk in the 19th century or in a cocktail?"
Shots? "Absinthe was never made to be drunk as a shot: adding chilled water will give you a drink that will last three or four times as long, and one that almost all of our customers seem to prefer. Could we divide your drink between two glasses, add some chilled water to the second glass and ask you to compare the two different experiences for yourself?"
Thujone? "We do not know the thujone levels of the absinthes we have, and all the research we have done on this suggests it is not really relevant. All our absinthes are within the legal limit, and it really makes no difference to the drink what level it is. You'd have to drink several bottles of absinthe very quickly to get any so-called "absinthe effect," and we'd prefer you not to do that, for your health as much as anything!"
Any other difficult questions from "know it all" customers?
5. FURTHER STUDY!
Absinthe is a relatively new category in most markets, and therefore it presents a great opportunity for progressive bars to be innovative. Here are some ideas for how to capitalise on absinthe in your bar.
Ask an Absinthe Ambassador to run an Absinthe Masterclass in your bar, both for bar staff and for consumers (best run separately). Here is the email address of one Absinthe Ambassador: alanATlaclandestineDOTcom
Run an Absinthe Dinner/Food Pairing event. I've run these in Europe and in Asia, and they can be very effective at shaking up preconceptions of absinthe. The herbal make-up of absinthe probably works better with food than many other spirits.
Serve Absinthe Flights, allowing your customers to sample 3 very different styles. A flight of 3 Vertes from France, Switzerland and the USA. Or of 3 blanches from different countries. Or 3 absinthes from one country. Or a flight of very small batch absinthes from different States/countries. And so on. This seems to be an excellent opportunity to attract consumers to your bar (assuming you're the first to do this in your area) and it's great for customers too.
Apparently, "absinthe makes the heart grow fonder," so celebrate Valentine's Day, host wedding parties etc ... using absinthe.
The whole history of absinthe provides many date-related events to use. The day it was banned, the day it was re-legalised, Van Gogh's birthday, etc etc. The opportunities for promotion are almost limitless.
And I'm sure I'm only scratching the surface here. Let me know if you have any ideas too.
In just a few paragraphs, I cannot claim to provide absolutely everything that a bartender needs to help him use and serve absinthe. Absinthe also needs passion, interest and even love ... and not every bartender will love absinthe. That's precisely the opportunity for those who do love absinthe .. to allow your passion to shine through, and to enthuse your customers. I hope to meet many more of you over the months and years ahead, in North America, in Europe and in Asia. Please feel free to contact me for help, and with any questions. And until we meet face-to-face ... Santé!
I think that Blues Cat, whose label has just been approved for US launch, is the 78th absinthe to get that permission. Not that it is possible to find more than about 40 of those anywhere currently.
What I like about Blues Cat is that it represents a co-operation between 4 absinthe artists, who all appear on the back label.
I think co-operation like this is great: pooling strengths and working on a shared goal can often produce something that is more than the sum of its parts. Wine has seen great collaborations like this (notably Opus One), and absinthe has seen some transatlantic partnerships too. Notably the first Marteau was a collaboration between America's Gwydion Stone and Switzerland's Oliver Matter, and more recently Butterfly is a collaboration between America's Brian Fernald and Switzerland's Claude-Alain Bugnon. Even more recently, Stefano Rossoni and Martin Zufanek worked together on La Grenouille and L'Ancienne.
Cheers to the creators of Blues Cat: Cheryl, Eric, Kirk and Kenneth. I look forward to trying this soon!
Dates are strange things: they can take on a significance because of an event that happened years ago, but can also mark a more modern event. Today, for example, is St. David's day in Wales, a long-standing event of course, and is also the more modern World Book Day. Which is why my daughter dressed as Artemis to go to school. I wonder if she knows about Artemis and Artemisia (the name for the wormwood family of plants)?
There are also two absinthe days that are celebrated around this time.
March 5th has been declared National Absinthe Day in the USA, by Viridian Spirits, the owners of Lucid. March 5th, 2007 was the date when the Lucid label was approved by the TTB, although the recipe had been approved several months earlier.
As far as France (one of the world's major centres of absinthe production) is concerned, there does not yet seem to be a similar date, and certainly no similar events. Apart from maybe the Pontarlier Absinthiades which is not a fixed date and moves from year to year.
Switzerland, however, and especially in the Val-de-Travers region, also celebrates its own absinthe day, on March 1st. March 1st, 2005, was the date when absinthe production and sale was finally re-legalised in Switzerland. In fact, March 1st is a public holiday in the region where most Swiss absinthes are made, although to be honest, the holiday marks the date in 1848 when Neuchatel gained independence from Berlin and Prussia. So while this area of Switzerland celebrates a holiday on the same day that absinthe was legalised here, I cannot claim that the holiday is just for absinthe. I think it likely, however, that a few glasses of absinthe will be enjoyed there today.
The fact that there are "absinthe days" in both Switzerland and the USA leads me onto some related points about these two countries.
Firstly, Switzerland, in re-legalising absinthe, became the only country to lay down specific standards about the absinthes that can be made and/or sold in Switzerland. They have to be distilled and they cannot contain any artificial colouring.
Secondly, the USA, in re-legalising absinthe, became the only country to lay down specific standards about the way absinthes can be marketed, in particular stating "the term “absinthe” cannot be the brand name; the term “absinthe” cannot stand alone on the label; and the artwork and/or graphics cannot project images of hallucinogenic, psychotropic or mind-altering effects." In other words, ruling out some of the more sensational and misleading approaches to absinthe marketing that have plagued other countries.
Between Switzerland and the USA, then, standards for product and for marketing have been established; standards that will hopefully start to be adopted elsewhere. So it's a good idea to celebrate both today (the Swiss absinthe day) and next Monday (the US absinthe day). I was delighted, therefore, to see a New York bar using the US national absinthe day to promote a range of Swiss absinthe cocktails. I may just try this one later on today ...
The Edgar Degas cocktail: La Clandestine Absinthe, Kaluha, Grand Marnier, espresso
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